If there’s one thing I’ve learned after years in the printing industry, it’s this: sublimation printing is simple in theory, but unforgiving in practice. The process itself—using heat to turn dye into gas and bond it with a surface—sounds straightforward. Yet most printing problems don’t come from the design or the printer. They come from using the wrong settings on the wrong material.
Many beginners assume there’s a universal sublimation temperature and time that works for everything. Unfortunately, that’s one of the fastest ways to waste blanks, ink, and patience. Each sublimation blank behaves differently under heat, and understanding those differences is what separates clean, professional results from dull colours and ghosting.
This guide breaks down how experienced printers approach sublimation on different materials, why settings matter so much, and how to dial in reliable results across a wide range of products.
Sublimation relies on a chemical reaction between heat, pressure, and coating. While the ink itself remains consistent, the surface it bonds to does not.
Key variables include:
Coating thickness and quality
Material density
Heat retention
Surface texture
For example, a ceramic mug absorbs and releases heat very differently from a metal panel or a polyester T-shirt. Using identical settings across all blanks often leads to faded prints, colour shifts, or material damage.
Professional printers treat sublimation as a controlled process, not a preset.
Before looking at specific materials, it’s important to understand the three pillars of sublimation success.
Too low, and the dye won’t fully gasify. Too high, and you risk scorching coatings or distorting the blank.
Time controls how long the dye has to penetrate the coating. Longer doesn’t always mean better—overexposure can dull colours.
Even pressure ensures consistent transfer. Uneven pressure causes blurry edges, patchy colour, or ghosting.
Every material requires a different balance of these three elements.
Ceramic mugs remain one of the most popular sublimation products, but they’re also easy to get wrong.
Temperature: 180–190°C
Time: Around 180 seconds
Ensure the mug wrap or press fits tightly; loose contact causes faded edges.
Preheat mugs briefly to remove moisture and prevent condensation marks.
Double-check handle alignment—misplacement is one of the most common errors in mug pressing.
Good mug results come from even pressure and stable heat, not rushing the process.
Fabric sublimation is heavily dependent on fibre content. The dye bonds with polyester, not cotton.
65% polyester or higher
White or light-coloured fabrics
Temperature: 190–200°C
Time: 40–60 seconds
Always pre-press for a few seconds to remove moisture and wrinkles.
Use protective paper to prevent ink bleed-through onto the heat press pad.
Avoid direct sublimation on 100% cotton unless using a coating or transfer film.
When fabric results look dull, the issue is usually fibre composition—not ink quality.
Metal photo panels and nameplates offer striking clarity, but they demand precision.
Temperature: 190°C
Time: Around 60 seconds
Remove protective films before pressing—forgetting this ruins transfers.
Place the artwork face down on the coated side only.
Allow the metal to cool flat after pressing to prevent warping.
Metal holds heat longer than most blanks, so cooling time matters just as much as pressing time.
Phone cases vary widely in construction, which makes them one of the trickier blanks.
Plastic cases with aluminium inserts
3D vacuum sublimation cases
Sublimate aluminium inserts separately before assembling.
Use vacuum presses for full-edge coverage on 3D cases.
Avoid excessive heat—overexposure can warp plastic permanently.
In phone case sublimation, restraint produces better results than force.
Large-format fabric blanks are forgiving, but alignment and moisture control are essential.
Temperature: 190°C
Time: 45–60 seconds
Secure transfer paper with heat-resistant tape to avoid shifting.
Pre-press to remove creases that cause white streaks.
Insert protective paper inside pillowcases or bags to prevent ink transfer.
Clean preparation is the difference between professional-looking home décor and amateur results.
Most sublimation-ready wood blanks are MDF with a polymer coating.
Temperature: 190°C
Time: About 60 seconds
Ensure the wood is fully dry before pressing—moisture can cause bubbling.
Secure puzzle pieces tightly so they don’t shift during transfer.
Apply even pressure across the entire surface.
Wood sublimation rewards patience and proper preparation.
Glass sublimation delivers elegant results, but it’s sensitive to temperature shock.
Temperature: 180°C
Time: Around 150 seconds
Print designs in mirror mode and sublimate onto the reverse side.
Let glass cool naturally—sudden cooling can cause cracking.
Avoid moving the glass immediately after pressing.
Glass blanks benefit from slightly lower temperatures and longer press times.
Even experienced printers can run into issues if they overlook the basics.
Using one setting for all materials
Skipping pre-pressing
Applying uneven pressure
Rushing the cooling time
Ignoring humidity and moisture
Sublimation success is often about eliminating small oversights rather than changing major equipment.
In production environments, settings are rarely guessed.
Experienced printers:
Keep a settings log for each blank type
Test new materials before full runs
Adjust one variable at a time
Account for press differences and ambient conditions
This systematic approach saves time, money, and frustration in the long run.
Is there a universal sublimation temperature?
No. Each blank requires its own balance of heat, time, and pressure.
Why do my colours look faded?
Common causes include low polyester content, insufficient heat, or poor coating quality.
Can I sublimate on cotton?
Not directly. Cotton requires a polymer coating or special transfer film.
Why do I get blurry edges or ghosting?
Usually caused by paper movement or uneven pressure during the printing process.
Should I peel sublimation paper hot or cold?
Most blanks work best with warm peeling, but always follow blank-specific guidance.
Sublimation printing isn’t about memorising one set of numbers—it’s about understanding materials. Once you respect how each blank responds to heat, pressure, and time, consistency becomes achievable.
Whether you’re producing mugs, garments, metal panels, or home décor, the same principle applies: test carefully, record your results, and refine your process. With experience, sublimation becomes less about trial and error and more about repeatable, professional-quality output.
That’s when sublimation stops feeling unpredictable—and starts feeling powerful.